Female fashion icons

Fashion is an artistic expression that transcends time and space, shaping and reflecting the culture and society in which it exists. At the epicenter of this multifaceted industry, we find visionary women who not only challenge established conventions but also seek to redefine the boundaries of creativity, consequently inspiring a new generation of talented dreamers.

In this scenario, names such as Rei Kawakubo, Bianca Saunders, Grace Wales Bonner, Chitose Abe, and Phoebe Philo stand out, each contributing significantly in their own way to the image of contemporary fashion.

Check out below a little more about each of them.

Rei Kawakubo

Born on October 11, 1942, Rei Kawakubo is one of the most influential figures in contemporary fashion. Despite lacking formal training in fashion design, Kawakubo studied plastic arts and literature at Keio University in Japan. In 1967, she began her career as a freelance stylist, and two years later, she founded Comme des Garçons, a brand that would become an icon of innovation and deconstruction in fashion.

The brand Comme des Garçons was founded in 1969 and is known worldwide for its anti-fashion clothing; gaining notoriety by challenging aesthetic conventions and promoting a singular vision of fashion and design, free from standards. For her holistic approach, Kawakubo is known for engaging not only in garment design and technique but also in graphic design, advertising, and store interiors. Her store in Aoyama, Tokyo, with its slanted glass façade, is an example of this integrated vision.

While witnessing toxic masculinity, militarism, or aggression here in the real world, the Comme des Garçons universe designed by a woman, Rei Kawakubo, shows no signs of such ills; as the designer not only withdraws from societal standards but also introduces elements that, often associated with the female audience, are now presented in a revamped manner to the male audience.

A good example is her Fall 2024 Menswear collection - CDG Homme Plus, which despite having a singular narrative that communicates in words the universe of the collection, Kawakubo sought to bring feeling to the fluffy, felt pieces, in jackets cut like shrunk cardigans and trousers with voluminous, drooping folds. And at certain times, she replaced the trousers with white pleated skirts and soon moved on to knitwear: soft cages, lace baby knit sweaters worn with crinkled diapers, reminiscent of a Victorian aesthetic.

"I never intended to start a revolution. It just turns out that my notion was different from everyone else's," the designer told the "New York Times". And with that, even in the past having suffered from such criticisms due to the originality of her asymmetrical or unfinished creations, she can be understood by some media and the public, who not only shared positively with the designer's vision but also expanded it, gaining through the MET Gala, an exhibition, being the second living person to be honored by the institution; and gaining acclaim from the public with her avant-garde and innovative collections.

Bianca Saunders

Revolutionizing menswear with her unique approach, British designer Bianca Saunders combines tradition and modernity in her pieces, flowing through classic and diverse narratives while continuously finding new ways to print contemporary codes in her work. Graduating from the Royal College of Art in 2017, Bianca quickly gained recognition, being named one of Forbes' "30 Under 30" in 2020. Bringing her namesake pieces, Bianca Saunders has been challenging gender norms and celebrating black culture in her projects. Her influence in the fashion world was further highlighted in 2023 when she secured a coveted spot in the prestigious "BoF 500" by Business of Fashion.

Saunders’ designs are proof of an authentic approach with an interactive vision between tradition and modernity, resulting in a new perspective on menswear; so much so that it was through this same intercultural look in her creations at the Met Gala that showcased her innovative prowess, unveiling five looks inspired by the subtlety of tailoring by Karl Lagerfeld, blending her culture with luxury design alongside Usher.

During the Paris calendar in early 2022, the British-Jamaican designer focused on refining her core silhouettes for autumn. "This collection captures everything I want to say with my brand right now," says Bianca. "And I wanted to show some of the looks on women too, because everyone should be able to wear and feel comfortable in my clothes."

This season, Bianca used deadstock fabrics acquired from the LVMH-backed platform, Nona Source, along with materials from Positive Materials and Isko. Even opting for a digital presentation, Saunders' distinctive tailoring and subtle minimalism emphasized movement as a central focus.

Grace Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner, born in 1990, is an English designer whose creations blend European and Afro-Atlantic heritage. Founder of the Wales Bonner brand, she is recognized for her innovative proposals that redefine cultural luxury. Bonner has received numerous awards, including the LVMH Prize and the CFDA Fashion Award.

Besides her brand, Bonner heads the Fashion Design Department at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. Her exhibition "A Time For New Dreams" at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery explored black cultural and aesthetic practices, solidifying her reputation as a multifaceted thinker and creator. Collaborations with Adidas and Dior highlight her influence and versatility in the fashion world.

The designer, a connector of culture for various genders and generations, explored unique languages from history with contemporary aspects in the fall-winter 2024 collection: introducing a combination of British tailoring with American varsity codes. Called “Dream Study,” inspired by Howard University, the collection is a meeting of university experience, introducing athletic silhouettes reflecting Howard's sporting legacy, together with leather aviator jackets, velvet tops, and satin baseball shirts completing the academic wardrobe.

Simple and pragmatic, this is the trend through which Wales executes clothing collections - which is dominating fashion at the moment; with different cultural references based on an essential aspect for constructing a project - "I think I want to do something that is not superfluous," says the designer demonstrating that she seeks to firmly anchor all elements and languages during the creation process.

Chitose Abe

Chitose Abe, founder and creative director of Sacai, is known for her ability to innovatively combine clothing pieces. Initially working at Comme des Garçons, Abe launched Sacai in 1999, creating a brand that challenges conventions with its hybrid creations and unique design techniques.

Abe has maintained complete creative control over her brand, ensuring that each collection reflects her artistic vision. Sacai, which began showcasing at Paris Fashion Week in 2009, is now a respected international presence, with prominent collaborations including Nike and Beats by Dre. Abe's dedication to innovation and quality has made her a central figure in contemporary fashion.

In the latest Fall 2024 Menswear collection, Chitose not only produced puffers, trench coats, Fair Isle knits, tweed, and biker-style leather jackets; but also, in tune with American collegiate aesthetics, spared no effort in introducing the trend of the moment on the runways, with complex silhouettes, exaggerated volumes and descriptions escaping primarily from the classic expected standards of that season. In the women's collection, there were also many of these codes running around, especially in twisted asymmetrical knits, silhouettes with balloon sleeves, and vertically torn dresses with zippers — a prelude to the show she will do in the upcoming season. Through these works, her credibility stood out, leading her to collaborations with Carhartt and skate and streetwear pioneer and artist Mark Gonzales.

Phoebe Philo

Born in Paris to English parents, Phoebe Philo grew up in the suburbs of London. Graduating from the renowned Central Saint Martins, she began her career in 1997 as an assistant to Stella McCartney at Chloé, eventually taking on the role of designer in 2001. Upon taking over Céline in 2008, Philo revitalized the French brand, introducing a functional and contemporary wardrobe without losing its personality.

Practicing with elegance the art of discreet luxury at Céline, under her direction, Philo contributed to the popularization of trends and the translation of complex concepts into successful products such as deconstructed tailoring and slouchy trousers, as well as the iconic trapeze and luggage bags. Furthermore, Phoebe not only influenced fashion with the use of leather, oversized silhouettes, deconstructed tailoring, and the reintegration of artisanal work with an urban aesthetic; but also significantly impacted culturally items such as Adidas' Stan Smith sneakers.

Philo left a legacy at the brand with a legion of followers known as "philophiles." Her influence continues to be felt in contemporary brands and resale platforms, evidencing the longevity of her impact on fashion.

These five designers not only lead some of the most influential brands in the world but also redefine the meaning of being a woman in the men’s and/or women’s fashion industry, combining talent, modernity, innovation, and a well-grounded cultural immersion in their creative visions.