The creativity and legacy of Marithé and François Girbaud

The brand was created in 1972 by the French designer François Girbaud and his wife Marithé Bachellerie, but in the 1960s, both were already using DIY: their Wrangler jeans were washed in different ways. Their mission was to introduce the article in Europe, as it was only very popular in the United States at the time. At that time, jeans were exclusive to major American brands, with specific uses: Levi’s for miners, Wrangler for rodeos, and Lee for cotton workers. But Marithé and François had a different vision for jeans.

It all started in Saint-Tropez in 1967, when Marithé Bachellerie and François Girbaud met. The following year, they founded their first brand, ÇA, which soon faced a lawsuit from C&A. The case was filed as Matricule 11342, a name they both used as the new identity of the brand until it was renamed Closed in 1978. Marithé was always involved with the engineering and marketing of the products, while François focused on styles and silhouettes.

Thus, they reformulated the way jeans were made, adjusting the height and adapting them for men and women. In 1976, François and Marithé were responsible for the invention of washed denim, called Stonewash - a technique that involves centrifuging jeans with water and pumice stone. In this method, jeans are washed on a large scale, using large laundries and adding volcanic stones from the island of Lipari to the process. The result is completely innovative, with more pronounced and less uniform washing marks. During the treatment, the fabric is, in a way, sanded, making the use of detergents unnecessary.

"I admit that, in the beginning, we sent many machines to the junkyard. But, little by little, with the technicians, we found ways to prevent damaging the equipment, while keeping the results we wanted." – Marithé

The Stonewash was also the first step to create a more flexible jean, which at that time was still very rigid, and is now "softened" by the stones.

In addition, François developed stretch jeans, blending elastic fibers with cotton. In 1977, they created baggy jeans, which are still famous today and became known in the USA as Cargo Baggy. The couple was also a pioneer in laser cutting, ultrasonic welding, and a technique called “techno-fusion,” which allowed them to assemble clothes without seams.

The industrialization of the washing process was the true starting point for the duo's career. Quickly, they concentrated their efforts on finding new processes to achieve results different from those obtained by natural washing. To do this, they used chemicals like bleach, which artificially wore out the jeans but required large amounts of water in the process.

However, the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 was a decisive moment for the designers. They were impressed by the arrival of thousands of low-quality jeans worn by young people from the Eastern bloc of Europe. These faded, acid-washed styles were responsible for colossal environmental degradation and enormous waste of natural resources (especially water). This was the trigger that led the duo to seek processes that were more respectful of the natural ecosystem.

To fully understand the success of the duo, it is essential to grasp the logic and thinking that guide them. Far from seeking fame, Marithé and François consider themselves artists, but also technicians or inventors (a little eccentric). They are always committed to developing the product, improving the quality of the material, its functionalities, and inventing a new aesthetic.

Like true scientists, they research and experiment until the project is completed. When that happens, they move on to another challenge. Thus, throughout their careers, they created several brands:

• Maillaparty, dedicated to knitwear.

• Momento Due, to explore ready-to-wear for men.

• Closed and Métamorphojean, two pioneering brands in jeans production (1980s).

• SPQRCITY, a line focused on the early inspirations of sportswear.

• Compagnie des Montagnes et des Forêts, focused on leather creations.

For the duo, a single name often carries a limited image, imposing a restrictive framing. Launching their creations under different brands allowed them to explore countless possibilities.

The name Marithé + François Girbaud was only adopted later in their careers, when they had already achieved global success. From then on, the brand entered a more "traditional" logic and established itself as a true highlight in the high fashion of the 1980s... but never took itself too seriously.

In 1986, they debuted at Paris Fashion Week with a show at the Louvre and began producing under their own names. International success came in 1983 when the brand's baggy jeans appeared in the film Flashdance, worn by Jennifer Beals. This led to the sale of 7 million pairs in a single year.

In the 1990s, popularity continued with the “Jump” video by the duo Kriss Kross, where baggy jeans once again took the spotlight. The brand also got involved in landmark moments, such as commercials directed by Jean-Luc Godard and a controversial campaign in 2005 that recreated ‘The Last Supper’ by Leonardo da Vinci.

The roots of streetwear, the pioneers of sportswear

The legacy of Girbaud's creations in various "stylistic" movements is often underestimated, although it is absolutely fundamental.

"One day, I was wearing a pair of François jeans, and we were having fun. I put on the jeans and tied them around my waist with a rope... and there we had invented the baggy jeans." – Marithé

Today, the big trend in streetwear is on the rise. Many designers claim to "draw inspiration" from the street for their creations. Marithé and François have been bringing street fashion to the runways for decades. And, even better, they created alternatives... often somewhat accidentally.

The baggy example is emblematic. Once the idea emerged in the creators' heads, the model was quickly adopted by African sapeurs and American rappers. These pants provided freedom of movement, something valuable for dancers or artists who depend on mobility. Marithé + François Girbaud then became a reference brand in street fashion, which, some time later, would be defined as streetwear.

At the same time, they were pioneers in envisioning clothes inspired by sportswear for everyday life. Technical, elastic, and even reflective materials were incorporated into all the pieces – even the most sophisticated ones.

In addition, their communication adapted. They highlighted visuals and campaigns that symbolized movement and sports, collaborating with great dancers, such as the Étoile Sylvie Guillem.

Whether through creative or scientific methods, Marithé and François Girbaud continue to challenge the way we view fashion. Creators of "the other jeans," their contribution transformed jeans into an icon of the 20th century, and the future of denim looks brighter than ever. As François says: "We went from stone and water to air and light. It's incredible."