The cultural significance of the 59FIFTY cap

It is undeniable that the New Era 59FIFTY cap model is a versatile accessory that looks great in various styles and occasions. Additionally, the cap carries an exponential relevance within the cultural and sports scene in the United States, today being an item that attracts attention for collaborations from various designers and brands from all over the world.

Founded in 1920 by a German immigrant named Ehrhardt Koch, New Era began its work by manufacturing wool caps, producing 60,000 Gatsby-style caps in its first year. After more than a decade since its inception, the brand suffered from a lack of demand for fashionable caps, and it was then that in 1932, Ehrhardt's son, Harold, joined him in the business. Realizing that professional baseball was growing in popularity, they decided to bring a new product to the market - the baseball cap. The first professional baseball cap from New Era was produced in 1934 for the Cleveland Indians uniforms.

World War II was a difficult period for New Era and brought significant challenges to the manufacturing of its caps due to fabric shortages; however, the Kochs were resourceful and resilient, soon finding the material they needed in abundance in the textile district of New York City. During this period, the fabrics were dyed in the washing machine to match the colors of local teams.

After years of development, in 1954, New Era launched the 59FIFTY model with a revolutionary design. At that time, New Era supplied caps to 16 teams in the professional baseball league, and although they weren't released to the public until the mid-1980s, over time, replicas began to appear as people came to understand the concept of the product. The cap began to be used as a symbol of pride, both for the city in which they lived and for the team they supported. Baseball quickly became one of the biggest sports in America, and the 1990s marked a crucial period for New Era and its 59FIFTY, being named the exclusive supplier of Major League Baseball in 1993.

After artist Spike Lee was photographed wearing a red Yankees cap during the World Series, the model exploded in popularity, and the public begged the brand to market caps in different colors and embroideries. By integrating customization, New Era allowed consumers to express not only their collective values but also their personal identity through their choice of colors. 

It didn't take long for the 59FIFTY to dominate the tastes of other subcultures, particularly the hip hop culture, which was drawn to the model not only for the symbolism that the accessory had in sports but also for the aesthetic context. Worn by major figures like 50 Cent, Jay-Z, Aaliyah, and Eazy-E, the model became beloved in hip hop culture. This relationship became even more intense and significant with the NY Yankees model, which became indispensable alongside jeans and Timberland.

This concept of the 59FIFTY as a cultural artifact was further affirmed when MoMA included the NY Yankees 59FIFTY as part of the exhibition "Is Fashion Modern", which featured 111 items that shaped modern culture, a testament not only to the influence of sports culture but also to the cap's ability to become a historical landmark. 

Nowadays, the 59FIFTY has transcended baseball, available practically for any authorized sports team, in various colors and sizes. The industry capitalized on and recognized the ubiquitous historical appeal of the cap, with brands like Aimé Leon Dore, Fear of God, and Off White creating their own interventions on the model. Although previously the cap was aimed at baseball fans, consumers now buy the item with no interest in the sport, simply influenced by or appreciative of its aesthetic appeal. Walking down the streets today in Brazil, for example, one can spot 10 different people wearing 59FIFTY for 10 different reasons.

Text/Research: Vitor Queiroz