Alexander McQueen and his hair lockets

Alexander McQueen has always been ambitious about embracing an eccentric narrative, a testament to this desire unfolds in the early years of his career, where Lee crafted labels made of plastic and human hair. The British designer graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1992, and quickly gained prominence in the fashion world — his final collection at school was entirely purchased by Isabella Blow, a magazine editor and one of the most influential figures in the industry. As soon as he launched his maison under his middle name, Alexander began to shape his identity as one of the greatest icons of contemporary fashion.

FIRST COLLECTION

Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims is the designer's first collection, produced as a thesis collection for his master's degree at Central Saint Martins. The narrative of the collection was inspired by the victims of the 19th-century London serial killer - Jack the Ripper, with aesthetic inspiration from fashion, eroticism, and the practices of prostitution during the Victorian era. The collection was presented in 1992, and it was Isabella Blow who bought the entire collection. She would later become a friend and muse of McQueen.

The notes from the show stated: "day-to-night clothing collection inspired by the street women of the 19th century." Several pieces were lined with fabric that contained encapsulated human hair. For the labels, he inserted strands of hair into squares of clear plastic. The use of human hair referenced various historical practices: keeping a lock of hair as a memento or trophy, the Victorian practice of prostitutes selling their hair, and the use of hair jewelry for mourning in the Victorian era.

“I used that as my signature label, with strands of hair in Perspex. In the early collections, it was my own hair: it was about me giving myself to the collection.”

The use of human hair was not just an aesthetic choice but a symbol that carried connection and intimacy, as it demonstrated the sacrifice of giving a part of oneself within his collection with his own hair, making each piece not just a work of fashion but an extension of his own essence. He carefully sewed the lockets into the linings of the garments, aiming to bring a personal and emotional touch to his creations. The pieces from the collection "Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims" were showcased at the opening of the famous "Savage Beauty" exhibition at the Costume Institute in 2011, where they celebrated the designer's most iconic works for the boldness and depth of his pieces.

Despite the poetic gesture of McQueen, the inspiration behind it comes from the Victorian era, a moment in history marked by extravagant garments and a strict morality; when prostitutes sold kits of hair locks, acquired by lovers to gift and exchange as symbols of longing and affection. The designer, with his unique ability to blend the macabre and the romantic, transformed this concept into an art form that provoked reflection on love, loss, and identity.

Throughout his journey, McQueen challenged the norms and standards of the time, with theatrical creations and shows that transported guests to an immersive experience, filled with emotions and complex narratives.

Through his creations, McQueen made us remember the fragility of life and the importance of human connections. And with the creation of the hair lockets, we see that the gesture truly was not just a design detail, but an example of his constant pursuit of authenticity and personal expression.