Japan House brings together leading figures of Japanese fashion in an exhibition.

The exhibition - named "Efeito Japão: moda em 15 atos" - highlights the impact and influences of Japanese fashion on the global stage. Through 15 outfits from important Japanese designers, the exhibition aims to unveil the power of Japanese design that assimilates global trends, transforming them into new trends through a particular sensitivity.

Among the pieces selected especially for the exhibition are works by Hanae Mori, Masao Mizuno, Kansai Yamamoto, Kenzo Takada, Yohji Yamamoto, Isao Kaneko, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe, Jun Takahashi, Kunihiko Morinaga, Junichi Abe, and Chitose Abe.

"This exhibition is a valuable opportunity for us to understand an overview of the transformations of fashion in Japan, which began in the 1950s and continue to this day. I hope that the visitors of this exhibition connect with the Japanese sensitivity, which can contemplate the changes of the times through fashion trends, like a mirror that reflects society," says the exhibition's coordinator, Souta Yamaguchi.

With a timeline defined through the exhibited pieces, the exhibition highlights historical milestones and social contexts of fashion in Japan and the world, from the post-World War II period - when clothing transitioned from kimonos to Western wear, through the acclaim of Japanese designers on the international stage and the influence of Japanese street style. New names in Japanese fashion are also addressed, emerging as leaders of contemporary trends such as the use of cutting-edge technology, as well as promising designers.

THE STORIES BEHIND THE WORKS

Post-war Japan (in the 1950s) was remodeling the kimono and Western clothing in terms of function, hygiene, and economy. The oldest piece on display was made with a combination of kimono fabrics created using the traditional weaving technique from Okinawa, Ryūkyū kasuri, in which cotton is dyed with natural dyes. Produced when fashion shows began to spread across the country, the piece reflects the historical context of the transition of Japanese fashion from kimonos to Western garments.

By the 1960s, elastic synthetic fabrics gradually led to the integration of Western clothing, initiating the challenge of Japanese style design. One of the displayed pieces is a bamboo print dress made from a single piece of polyester crepe fabric without cuts in the shoulder area by the first Asian designer accepted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

In the 1970s, Orientalism resurged in a context characterized by freedom and styles that mixed Japanese and Western influences that became popular. Kenzo Takada's piece expresses this moment: sewn in straight lines like a kimono and described as "anti haute couture." Another example is Kansai Yamamoto's creation, which used a motif seen in the painting of Japanese kites when making a jumpsuit based on the Kabuki costume.

In the 1980s, two important moments emerged: the first was extravagant fashion, which reflected Japan's high economic growth and the economic bubble - represented by a voluminous piece elaborated with delicate pleating details, lace, ruffles, and appliqués, which are the basis of Japan's Kawaii culture; on the other hand, the "Shock Wave" movement emerged, which rejected Western elegance - illustrated by a piece with bold draping and multiple layers of raw wool.

From the 1990s onwards, Japanese street style attracted international attention, with styles remixing various cultures and designs using advanced processing techniques. Yoshiki Hishinuma, who worked at MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO, used the thermoplasticity of polyester to create works by applying the traditional Japanese technique of shibori - dyeing that involves tying parts of the fabric and dipping it in pigment.

From the 2000s onward, minimalist designs emerged. Considering sustainability and the expression of personality complexities, pieces made with various materials of different textures, featuring asymmetric shapes and seamless stitching emerged. The goal is to break conventional beauty and transform the creation process, allowing the user to create the design. The avant-garde patchwork piece by ANREALAGE is an example of this: handmade work that goes beyond the digital and analog and offers a panoramic view of the diverse transition of contemporary Japanese fashion.

The exhibition is coordinated by Souta Yamaguchi and will be open to the public until September 1, 2024, at Japan House São Paulo - located at Avenida Paulista, 52.