The role of the circular economy: a chat with Thamires Pontes

In a world where natural resources are becoming increasingly scarce and the environmental impact of industries is becoming alarming, the circular economy emerges as a necessary response. Unlike the traditional linear model of extracting, producing, and discarding, this approach proposes a continuous cycle of reuse and innovation. In the fashion sector, one of the most polluting in the world, this transformation is already happening—and startups like PhycoLabs, led by Thamires Pontes, prove that technology and sustainability can go hand in hand.

Over the years, it is clear that various types of economic models have grown, adapted to different contexts and scenarios. It is against these contexts that the circular economy (CE) stands out, with its approach that seeks beyond sustainability, the efficiency in the use of different materials.

The objective of this economic model is defined by reducing waste and optimizing resources to the maximum. That said, it is clear that the circular economy does not operate through traditional means that are, in essence, based on the processes of extracting, producing, and discarding; rather, it proposes a continuous cycle—aiming to minimize environmental impacts through sustainability.

When we look at fashion, the CE takes on a special role within the industry as a potential agent for change. Due to the intensity of production in this field, the fashion industry is recognized as one of the most polluting in the world, with a high rate of waste, water use, and, especially, carbon emissions. Thus, the implementation of this model into our daily lives, through the best circular practices such as: rental and resale systems, the appreciation of more sustainable designs, and the adoption of recycled materials; significantly contributes not only to reducing impacts on nature but also promotes more conscious consumption.

Furthermore, the generational aspect extends to this scenario as well, and today, through a generation engaged in environmental issues, we have seen increasingly more movements and discussions about this theme. Generation Z demonstrates its weight and influence beyond a simple sustainable discourse, gradually demanding that brands adopt better sustainable practices. This audience opts to share their act of consumption beyond just purchasing, extending into a exchange of ethical values, which often, when not shared, leads them to stop consuming a brand due to a lack of representation or not being heard.

Brands, in turn, to meet the high demand and expectations of this segment of their consumers, have sought to incorporate greater circular economy strategies into their productions. Through projects and initiatives promoting recycled fabrics, reverse logistics, and awareness campaigns; companies have highlighted the importance of more intelligent consumption and shown that they seek to connect with their audience on an individual level—leading to a collective benefit.

Innovation and technology are other pillars that add value and become indispensable for the circular economy. In addition to brands, many designers have been exploring new technological processes, utilizing biotechnology to create biodegradable fabrics or employing upcycling techniques with organic waste to develop new pieces. Many also use AI as a tool to outline various ways to optimize their production and reduce waste.

Therefore, we see that all these initiatives and influences not only represent the technological advancements we have made that contribute to the CE, but also reinforce the role of fashion as a means of cultural and environmental expression. Thus, the circular economy shows that its objective goes beyond a simple narrative aimed at nature lovers and conscious consumers, demonstrating that the union of different sectors and agents can redefine not only the future of the fashion industry but also the fight against climate change and environmental issues.

Check out the conversation with Thamires below:

• How did this identification with environmental issues arise?

I believe my connection with nature, especially with the sea, is the root of it all. I was born and raised by the seaside in João Pessoa, Paraíba, surrounded by stunning natural beauty. This proximity to the ocean and the feeling of diving into another world has always been conscious of the importance of preserving it.

Throughout my career in the textile industry, I began to notice the significant environmental impact that conventional fashion caused. The production of clothing, from raw materials to disposal, generates an enormous amount of waste and pollution. This reality deeply troubled me and drove me to seek more sustainable alternatives.

During my master's degree, as I delved into the study of textile materials, I discovered the incredible potential of marine algae. The possibility of creating textile fibers from an abundant and renewable natural resource, like algae, fascinated me. It was at that moment that I realized that fashion could be a positive agent of transformation, contributing to a more sustainable future.

• What role do you believe technology can play in relation to the circular economy?

I believe that technology is our greatest ally in building a more sustainable future. It allows us to optimize processes, create new eco-friendly and even biodegradable materials, manage waste efficiently, and promote a shared economy. At Phycolabs, we are using technology to transform marine algae into more planet-friendly fibers and threads. Technology enables us to create a future where resources are used efficiently and waste is minimized, making the circular economy a reality.

• What do you think is the role of innovation in transforming the fashion industry into a more sustainable sector?

Imagine that in the near future, fashion inspired by other sectors will use artificial intelligence and synthetic biology to create interconnected ecosystems. I believe innovation is the key to transforming the fashion industry into a more sustainable sector. Through innovation and biotechnology, we can develop new technologies and materials that reduce the environmental impact of clothing production, such as biodegradable textile fibers and cleaner dyeing processes. Furthermore, innovation allows us to rethink the fashion business model, encouraging the circular economy and conscious consumption. With nature and innovation walking hand in hand, we can create a fashion industry that is not only aesthetically pleasing but also ethical and regenerative.

• How do you see the influence of Generation Z on the changes happening in fashion and sustainability?

Generation Z is profoundly and innovatively transforming the fashion industry—or at least that is my optimistic side speaking. Raised in a highly connected world and increasingly aware of environmental and social issues, this generation can, or rather should (here's the provocation), prioritize brands that share their values of sustainability and ethics. Concern for the environmental impact of production, appreciation for diversity, and the demand for transparency in the production chain are defining characteristics of this group. The fast fashion model is gradually giving way to slow fashion, which values more durable, higher quality pieces with a lower environmental impact. Additionally, Generation Z has driven the growth of the second-hand market and clothing rental, strengthening the circular economy. This new way of consuming fashion demonstrates that it is possible to unite style, responsibility, and awareness—and contributes significantly to redefining the future of the sector. In parallel and paradoxically, it is this same generation that opts to buy counterfeit items and promotes this practice on their social networks. Seeing this always raises a philosophical question for me: 'Does something need to be copied to be original?!' Perhaps Yohji Yamamoto was right when he said to copy, copy, copy what you love until you find yourself.

• The concept of a circular economy is gaining ground. What role do algae fibers play in this model?

The model that seeks to minimize waste and maximize the reuse of resources finds in algae fibers a powerful ally. Extracted from an abundant and renewable natural resource, these fibers provide a sustainable alternative to traditional textile materials. Additionally, the cultivation of algae benefits the oceans, sequestering carbon and providing habitat for various marine species. Incorporating algae fibers into the textile industry is a significant step toward a more sustainable fashion that aligns with the principles of the circular economy.

• How can brands connect better with young audiences using innovative materials like the one you've developed?

The algae fibers developed by Phycolabs represent a true revolution in the textile industry, offering a sustainable and innovative alternative. To connect with the young audience, which is increasingly engaged in environmental issues, brands can adopt alternative materials like this and highlight their contribution to a more conscious future. Transparency in the production process, traceability of materials, exclusive design, and an authentic narrative about sustainability are essential for creating a genuine connection. In a recent seminar for Folha de S.Paulo, I commented: "Soon, we will be dressing you with marine algae." And that is exactly what I believe and what motivates me every day to continue developing innovative fibers and threads at Phycolabs.

• What is still missing for sustainable fashion to become the standard instead of an exception?

Sustainable fashion is still in its early stages, but the potential for its growth is enormous. Innovation is the engine of this transformation, and materials like the algae fibers from Phycolabs show that creativity knows no bounds. However, innovation alone is not enough. It is essential to promote deep collaboration among brands, designers, scientists, and governments to create an ecosystem where sustainability becomes the standard with serious regulations. The textile industry needs to reinvent itself, adopting cleaner, more ethical, and transparent practices. The future of fashion is within our reach and depends on collective action to build a world where beauty and sustainability go hand in hand.