Donatella Versace: the mind behind the myth

Versace was established in 1978, in Milan, by designer Gianni Versace — a Calabrian stylist who grew up among fabrics, sketches, and steeped in Italian tradition. But from the very beginning, he made it clear: he was not there to follow the rules, but to rewrite them.

Gianni Versace never believed in the classic phrase “less is more.” For him, “more” was more. More color, more pattern, more sparkle, more skin on display. He mixed mythological prints with animal prints, neon colors with gold, leather and silk, studs and sequins. He created ultra-tight designs with precise cuts and fluid fabrics. And perhaps that's why it worked so well — it was audacity, and above all, coherence. Each collection told a unique narrative. Versace didn’t make clothes — he created characters from a mythological-pop empire, where everyone who wore them was a protagonist.

The brand never apologized for the body. On the contrary: it celebrated it with a shameless and authentic sensuality. Gianni, and later Donatella, created a powerful beauty standard, but never a submissive one. The Versace woman uses her body as a weapon, wears desire as armor, and walks as if she owns the place — because she does.

Even before the term existed, Versace was dressing women like Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Linda Evangelista — the original supermodels that Gianni helped immortalize with iconic runway shows and catwalks of the time. It also dressed icons like Madonna, Cher, and Elton John — artists who blended gender, music, and fashion with brute force. What Versace did was fuse fashion with sexual attitude without guilt.

Before even charting her own journey in the fashion industry, Donatella was the youngest sister and inspiration for Gianni Versace, the designer responsible for revolutionizing fashion in the 80s and 90s. In 1997, tragically, Gianni was brutally murdered in front of his mansion in Miami. The fashion world went into mourning. Donatella, although shaken by the tragedy, took the reins of Versace with the burden of maintaining all the work already done by her brother and held on to the hope of better times.

Donatella perfectly inherited her brother's management. She continued to dress women in disruptive silhouettes, endless slits, metallic fabrics, and high heels as symbols of command. Since she took over as creative director in 1997, after Gianni's assassination, Donatella has kept the essence of the brand alive — but translated all of it for the now. She created space for diversity, for Generation Z, for fluid masculinities, without ever losing the Versace signature.

Something interesting that, in summary, is not highlighted, is the way she worked maximalism, where the baroque found space amidst streetwear, and mythological references could remain alive, sharing space with pop culture — from Greco-Roman to now with TikTok.

As the 80s plunged into capitalist luxury and the aesthetics of success, Versace transformed fashion into performance, sensuality into power, and excess into art. Versace was not just a clothing brand: it was a visual scream, a baroque theater stamped on the body. The Versace logo is not a horse, nor an aristocratic coat of arms, much less an elegant letter. It's the Medusa, a mythological figure from Ancient Greece with snakes for hair, whose gaze turned others to stone.

Gianni chose Medusa because she represents seduction, power, and danger — elements he wanted to eternalize in his brand. He drew inspiration from the ruins of the city where he grew up, Reggio Calabria, where the image of Medusa adorned historic buildings. She was a pagan muse, a goddess both feared and desired. Just like the Versace woman. "Those who fall in love with Medusa never turn back. They are drawn forever," Gianni asserted.

This idea of hypnotic power became the heart of Versace: clothes that make you look and cannot look away. A style that, like Medusa, seduces and frightens at the same time.

Donatella has always been behind the scenes of the brand, influencing creations, helping to create the branding, and serving as a bridge between Gianni and celebrities. But it was under her leadership that the brand underwent a true metamorphosis. She was responsible for bringing more sensuality and theatricality with a glam rock touch to this new phase. She truly made the runway a spectacle, defining a new DNA that was even bolder, with provocative cuts and metallic fabrics. She has always been driven by strong references: from Italian baroque to pop divas, from London punk to classical architecture. She blends the old with the new as few do even today. That said, it is clear that in addition to being a designer and entrepreneur, Donatella is a woman who looks ahead without forgetting history — carrying all her baggage and references in her collections.

At the time Gianni Versace was still at the helm of the brand, he introduced classic and provocative aspects, and following this line, Donatella added to the brand's repertoire a daring without limits — being used as an example of a brand for lovers, as stated by Vogue Editor — Anna Wintour.

In 2018, the brand was sold to the Capri Holdings group, owner of Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo. It was sold for 2.12 billion dollars. This news shook the fashion world, as Versace was one of the last great Italian houses still family-run, led by Donatella. The buyer, Michael Kors Holdings, changed the name to “Capri Holdings Limited” shortly after the acquisition — in an attempt to position itself as a new global luxury empire, following the lines of LVMH and Kering. Despite the purchase, Donatella did not leave the creative direction, remaining as CEO to keep the essence of the brand alive within a new corporate scenario.

Still in that year, the designer was honored with the title of Fashion Icon by the GQ Men of the Year Awards Uk — this award came not only to honor her but also to acknowledge her position and importance regarding her cultural and aesthetic impact on the industry. This award was very significant: Donatella was the first woman to receive the title, thus breaking the tradition of titles being awarded to men. "This is not just for me. It’s for my team, for all women, and for Gianni. He is always with me," Donatella said in her acceptance speech.

The award celebrated 20 years since Gianni's death, and the world finally recognized Donatella as the force that kept the soul of Versace alive. The award sealed something that the industry already knew, but still remained hidden, and that the general public did not understand: Donatella is not a supporting actress. She is the director, star, and executive producer and maestro of this spectacle built by Gianni.

In a contemporary manner, her image has been associated with various music names. Since 2013 she has been creating relationships beyond fashion, extending connections with singer Lady Gaga — where the singer released the track "Donatella” in a tribute that elevated the designer with daring and ironic verses. Donatella herself approved the tribute and became very close to Gaga in the following years. They have walked together and participated in campaigns and fashion events. Their relationship has become something symbolic, highlighting the fusion between pop diva and fashion icon, with Gaga practically being an ambassador for the brand for years.

And when we talk about collaborations it’s almost impossible not to mention the iconic green chiffon dress with a tropical print and deep neckline worn by Jennifer Lopez at the Grammy Awards in 2000. Signed by Donatella, the look broke the internet before it even existed. The curiosity in question is that the image was searched for by thousands of people around the globe.

Donatella created a community full of daring, creating not just fans, but indeed supporters of her vision and aesthetics. The LGBTQIAPN+ community is certainly an ally of the brand, and she herself has proven this by stating she is a woman "built by gays.” "My life and work have been shaped by LGBTQ people. They have taught me everything I know about courage, style, daring, and expression,” the designer stated. Her connection with the community grew based on admiration, support, and love from both, creating an open and free space for visibility and inclusion.

In 2023, she received an award at the "Sustainable Fashion Awards” for her constant support for the community. Another award that carried the essence and values of the brand from the beginning, when Gianni was still in charge. Under her direction, Versace began to increasingly include non-normative models in campaigns and on runways. This in a scenario where, until a few years ago, there was still resistance to diversity in mainstream fashion. She has always used her platform (and the name Versace) to raise flags at crucial moments — such as support for same-sex marriage, campaigns against homophobia, and gender representation.

Donatella is not a passive ally. She participates in LGBTQIA+ events, speaks openly about rights, donates, supports institutions, and proudly appears alongside queer figures. She lives the flag, not just the print. Additionally, she has brought the feminist agenda forcefully by featuring older models, ordinary women of different body types, and even mothers on the runway — all without losing glamour.

Now, in April, the brand was sold to Prada for €1.25 billion — marking a significant return of the brand to Italian control. Despite this change, Versace maintains its unmistakable legacy. Even under new leadership, the essence of Versace remains intact, with Prada committed to preserving its unique and distinctive identity.

Donatella, apparently, has sustained not only an empire but also the values that make Versace — Versace. She has built a universe where sensuality does not need to be explained, where luxury does not need to be contained, and where daring is the rule, not the exception. With her sharp vision and visceral creative instinct, Donatella has transformed the brand into a symbol of power and aesthetic freedom, reaffirming that dressing is, above all, an act of limitless expression.