Between tradition, fashion, and culture: the emergence of tabis

Between tradition, fashion, and culture: the emergence of the tabis.

Originally created in Japan, the Tabi was born as a practical footwear used by workers that evolved over the centuries, strongly linked to local culture. The arrival of Martin Margiela in the 1980s transformed this ancestral symbol into an icon of conceptual fashion — opening a new chapter that unites artisanal heritage with aesthetic provocation.

Today, with over 178 million views on TikTok and a 342% increase in Google searches, the Tabi has returned to the center of cultural conversations. While some view it as a fashion cult item, others question its digital popularization and the real value behind the hype.

From domestic work and activities to runways, the Tabi continues to challenge ideas of beauty, standards, and identity. We explore its history, contradictions, and the impact of the footwear that continues to this day. Check it out below:

Emergence and origin

Being globally recognized through one of the most iconic maisons, the "Tabis" bear a narrative much older than Margiela's own existence, showing that its journey did not begin among the runways and haute couture, but rather in an ancestral dive into Japanese traditions.

Although records prove a possible emergence of the footwear from the 8th century — during the Nara period (710–794) — the Tabis emerged in Japan in the 15th century as traditional sandals called zori or geta. Although the classic separation between the toes may seem purely aesthetic, it is intentional, designed for better grip, stability, and comfort.

At that time, the country was already developing a culture of more refined clothing, which, besides being influenced by exchanges with China and Korea, was adapted to the weather and social structures. Its emergence not only brought about the iconic shape we know today but also showed that even back then, every color, material, or texture had purposes. For example, colors that indicated status and power were represented in purple and gold for nobility, while the poor were limited to blue, and ‘white tabis’ — which symbolized purity — were used on formal occasions, such as tea ceremonies, religious events, and traditional settings; like in temples, for example: the Noh.

Through the commercial opening with China, the Tabis at that time became more accessible, thanks to the greater availability of cotton, which was one of the most used materials in making sandals for the general population. Interestingly, even though it was such a common item at the time, many did not use it, such as courtesans — women of high society who offered companionship, entertainment, and sexual relations to men — as bare feet were considered erotic.

In various palettes and materials, whether high or low top, in all its versions, the Tabis have stood out as an intriguing item over the years. Its futuristic look has transcended the Japanese origins of the 15th century and become something everyday and present in the wardrobe of many beyond cultural members, but also for fashion lovers and Japanese design enthusiasts.

Materials, daily life, and creation process

Reflecting Japan's size and technology, the materials used in the Tabis only prove the potency of the country. Initially, the models were made from leather, specifically deer leather — which was exclusively reserved for nobility. The leather had lasting protection and was water-resistant, aspects that were important for the outdoor activities of the aristocracy at that time.

Over time, during the 14th century, cotton revolutionized the production of sandals, making them more accessible and comfortable for all classes. It was more breathable, practical, and ideal for Japan's humid climate. This shift marked not only how the tabis were used in daily life but also broke social barriers of the time. And with the evolution of materials, artisans further refined their productions. Silk was even used for more sophisticated, delicate, and ceremonial versions.

Although it may seem just another cultural and everyday item, for traditional Japanese society, the tabi was more than just a simple shoe. Being more than a wardrobe piece, it had important moments such as: tea ceremonies, weddings, and religious festivals — acquiring a sacred value beyond its basic function.

Changing Tabi marked social transitions, which were marked by their colors and patterns that could also vary according to season, age, and status. The white Tabi, for example, was reserved for solemn occasions, symbolizing purity and respect. This system revealed the depth of Japanese visual culture.

In everyday life, they accompanied individuals in all domestic chores to professional activities. Their design facilitated movement within Japanese homes, where people moved while squatting or kneeling. In summary, the Tabis reflected the local lifestyle.

Beyond their domestic and aesthetic functions, the separate-toe Tabi design addresses specific biomechanical principles. Its shape allows the big toe — which is essential for balance and propulsion — to move independently. This freedom improves stability and body awareness, which are fundamental bases for walking on uneven terrain. The big toe is responsible for about 80% of propulsion when walking. Thus, with this separation, the footwear can reinforce the intrinsic strength of the foot muscles, helping to prevent common issues caused by conventional closed shoes.

The benefits of the Tabi have broken into the work environment and reached the sports world. Martial arts such as judo, karate, and aikido adopted the footwear for its superior grip and stability. Its structure, as mentioned, favored weight distribution, activated deep foot muscles, and enhanced performance in movements requiring precision and balance. Even minimalist runners started using it, comparing the experience to running barefoot, now with protection.

Rise and entry into the fashion world

The act of transforming socks into shoes began in the late 19th century, with the introduction of jika-tabi, which means: "Tabi for the ground," made with a rubber sole to walk directly on the soil, without the need for another shoe on top. This adaptation made the shoe better suited for day-to-day activities, including more intense work. Today, you can still see Tobi Shokunin — construction workers — in Japan, using these models, now revamped with steel toes.

1951 marked the introduction and rise of the tabis worldwide. This popularization occurred thanks to Japanese marathon runner Shigeki Tanaka, who won the Boston Marathon using classic shoes with separated toes as running shoes. This moment drew not only global attention but also that of major brands like Nike, which ended up launching the Air Rift in 1996, a shoe with the iconic divider, made to improve balance and movement during physical activities.

Contexts, surrealism, and the beautiful

In the following years, thanks also to the rise, its entry into the fashion industry was already marked to occur. However, it was not only due to this isolated context that its emergence in the field occurred, but also because of the influences of the 20th century, such as the Cold War, the space race, and philosophical movements like structuralism and minimalism.

During this post-World War II and early Cold War moment, the search for the different, bold, or even strange began. Classic themes of this period, like Dior's New Look — marked by femininity in silhouettes, curves, and luxury after the war's scarcity, were shaping alongside French existentialists who were already beginning a counterculture in the 50s that donned black and austere clothing.

And in light of this value shift, what was once beautiful, clear, and aesthetic became strange, laden with symbolism, metallic, geometric, and even plastic. It was in this turbulent period that Surrealism was born, from 1924 to 1950; a movement that proposed destabilizing traditional views on the body and clothing, playing with symbols, hidden desires, acid humor, and eroticism.

By the 1960s, the space race held a prominent role — even if indirectly. Its role influenced aesthetic and conceptual developments, in fashion or in futuristic pop art. And although that surrealism — from André Breton, Salvador Dalí, and co. — was no longer present at the time of this race, its essence still reverberated in the quest for the extraordinary, for glimpse and dream, which were languages and codes that existed within surrealism.

The space race, especially between 1957 and 1969, stirred the collective imagination and turned towards space, the future, the unknown, beyond Earth. This led to the prominence of great designers like Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges, and Paco Rabanne, who began creating clothes that resembled space suits — silver, geometric, with plastics and metal. The aesthetic itself was not surrealist in the traditional sense, yet it flirted with the strange, the unreal, and the symbolic, concepts that were grounded in surrealism.

Moreover, the movement did not stop at fashion. It extended to design and architecture, in abstract, floating forms and structures that seemed to or challenged logic. And finally, this moment also marked psychedelia and escapism — where many in this idealization and quest for the strange, the unknown, and the cosmos, merged with the use of psychedelic drugs, pop art, spirituality, and a collective desire to escape reality.

Inspiration from Maison Margiela

In light of past events, the futuristic aesthetics of Courrèges and Cardin influenced Maison Margiela — showcasing a universe of possibilities for clothing as a form of minimalist, surreal, and strangely beautiful expression.

Inspired by a trip to Japan, Martin felt motivated once again to challenge the fashion norms imposed at the time. Thus, he introduced his own version of Tabi boots at his Spring/Summer 1988 debut show. The show was marked by a theatrical and simultaneously dark setting of models with covered faces, dropping rose petals on the ground as they showcased the clothes.

The proposal was clear: to create a version of the Tabi “invisible,” that in a way, created the illusion of a bare foot walking over a thick heel. Such radicality became a deadlock for the shoemakers of that time, who refused to make the model. It only became a reality when an almost retired Italian craftsman, Mr. Zagato, accepted the challenge to make it.

In the end, the footwear not only solidified as a classic but also gained reinterpretations with each new season. Initially, due to the low budget, Margiela used to repaint the Tabi pairs that had not been sold — a practice that soon transformed into an aesthetic decision and a fundamental part of the brand's ethos, focused on recycling and reinvention.

Martin Margiela clearly did not invent the Tabis, but he certainly showcased with excellence his creative vision and talent in deconstructing established forms to manifest new ideas.

The impact of the Tabis on Haute Couture

Transcending cultural and aesthetic boundaries, the Tabi sparked a revolution. Designers found in it and through it a source of inspiration marked by the endless idea of reinventing the codes of Western fashion. In addition to major maisons adopting the silhouette, each in their own vision, photographers, stylists, and artists were impacted by its design — becoming a universal modern symbol.

Tabification and the online

Today, at the height of trend consumption, Tabi boots have taken over TikTok with the viral Tabi Swiper, which totals over 178 million views and still provokes a 342% increase in Google searches. Even being seen as a symbol of disruptive and modern style, the bridge between tradition and global trend reveals how culture transforms as it circulates the world. The Tabis have moved from the streets of Kyoto to the runways of Paris and, more recently, to the frenetic feed of social media.

This trajectory reinforces their symbolic power: they are not just footwear but a questioning in the form of design — about beauty, strangeness, and status. With the advance of “tabification,” we see the return of the Tabis to everyday life. Many companies in the footwear industry have absorbed the separated big toe format and multiplied their variations for sneakers, loafers, sandals, and boots; now replicating the Tabi design in accessible versions.

Today, especially Generation Z sees the Tabi not just as a fashion item but as an assertion of identity. By choosing a piece with historical and visual weight, they seek more than style; they seek identification and purpose.

Legacy that broke culture

The separated big toe format resurfaces in multiple versions and platforms, from sports shoes to TikTok viral trends, proving that the power of the Tabis lies in their ability to adapt. They have ceased to be merely footwear to become a visual language, a silent manifesto about tradition, innovation, and the right to be different. As Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr said: “The more things change, the more they remain the same,” the Tabis have stopped being just a shoe: they are now a language that speaks about tradition, innovation, and aesthetic rupture.