The 100 years of Dickies and its journey in the fashion world

There are no rules when it comes to style — we are all free to use what we want, where and when we want. In fact, perhaps the only rule is that there are no rules. Fashion and style are subjective, which means that everyone's perspective is valid, even if it doesn't look like yours. One person may look at a shirt and indeed see a shirt, but another person may look at the same shirt and see a dress. This thought leads us to a brand that is universal and used by people from different lifestyles: Dickies. A brand with a heritage that has been around for a century, evolved over time while staying true to its central theme over the years - quality workwear.

Founded in Texas in the mid-1920s, Dickies was born from humble roots and had the principle of making workwear that represented quality, tenacity, and a spirit that embodied the American worker. Charles Nathan Williamson and Emmet Eugene Dickie "Colonel" Dickie tried various other business ventures before creating the Williamson-Dickies Mfg. Co. The Great Depression forced the company to pivot and provide millions of uniforms for the soldiers of the United States at that time. Once Dickies directed workwear production to the public, the company established new production facilities, warehouses, and sales territories across the country. Its most iconic creation is the Eisenhower jacket, named after General Dwight D. Eisenhower, still in production today, though in a more simplified version, it is a utilitarian and straight-cut jacket that brings style, functionality, and of course, style. 

In the 1950s, Dickies not only had its business in the United States but also made inroads into Europe and the Middle East, becoming an internationally recognized company. In the 1960s, Dickies produced two major breakthroughs that would define the path of its iconic clothing for the rest of the century. The company perfected its unique fabric - a seamless blend of durability and comfort. They came up with a blend of 65% polyester and 35% cotton that would set the standard for its “indestructible” clothing, in addition to the addition of zippers instead of buttons. Achieving a high level of popularity, in 1967, the brand introduced the 874 pant to its line, being yet another timeless success for Dickies.

The 1970s were a period of growth for the company on various fronts, as the brand opened industrial laundries, a step that solidified its relationships with companies that used its uniforms. Dickies further amplified its offerings in the following years, providing everything from dental supplies to literature for expectant mothers.

The genesis of Dickies changed abruptly at the turn of the 1980s, as Latino men and women adopted it as a symbol of their culture in Southern California, incorporating the brand into their style in the late 1970s, and by the 1980s, it became a staple of street style. This look came to be known as the “Cholo” style. This trend grew from Latino neighborhoods and solidified throughout Southern California. Members of N.W.A. were also frequently seen wearing it. The fashion also reached skaters, due to its durable material for potential falls, as well as complementing the style of the subculture.

Together with other workwear brands like Carhartt, Dickies began to attract the interest of a broader youth culture in the 1990s. Dickies' connection to Los Angeles fashion helped associate the brand with skate culture, pop punk, and hip hop. From Avril Lavigne and Justin Timberlake to Snoop Dog, Tupac, Notorious BIG, and Ice Cube, are just some of the celebrities seen wearing Dickies incorporated into their style in the 1990s and early 2000s. From this decade on, Dickies became a worldwide name in fashion, partnering with various significant brands such as Junya Watanabe, COMME des GARÇONS, Supreme, Medicom Toy, Stüssy, Gucci, and others.

As mentioned earlier, hip hop culture and skate culture in particular had a huge impact on how people dress today and what the fashion industry in general considers “cool.” With Dickies being strongly present in both subcultures, it was destined for the brand to live a bit of streetwear. In the latest Super Bowl halftime show, this association was clear with Eminem, Dr. Dre, Snoop Dog, and Mary J. Blige being supported by a dance crew, all wearing beige Dickies outfits, consisting of a short-sleeved work shirt paired with matching trousers.

In addition to its dickies website, the brand can be found at contemporary retailers such as Urban Outfitters as well as luxury retailers like SSENSE and Farfetch.

The brand has become something familiar for both work and sports practice or style, making Dickies to this day one of the most sought-after and primordial brands in the wardrobe. The pieces provoke the desire to dress well, whether by pairing the pants with a good pair of sneakers or trying to balance a striking piece with a more neutral tone. Some wear them loose, others prefer a tighter fit, and during the warmer months, some opt for shorts; whatever the form, Dickies fulfills its role of being simple yet practical and will continue to do so for another 100 years.

Text/Research: Vitor Queiroz